Cladding

 

Adding solid wall insulation to your home is one of the best ways to prevent heat loss.

If your home was built before 1920 it is likely to have solid external walls, rather than the cavity walls in newer properties.

Such solid walls allow almost twice as much heat to escape compared with cavity walls. But the good news is that such solid walls can be insulated - from the outside and the inside.

The savings on your heating bills can be considerable, since a typical detached property with internal insulation can save up to £460 each year.

As part of our free Home Health Check, our expert assessors, who all have City & Guilds accreditation, can advise on the best solution for your property.

Modern innovations in internal and external solid wall insulation mean an installation can be completed speedily and with minimum disruption.

 

How Direct Savings can help

 

The Direct Savings free Home Health Check will allow us to assess how energy efficient your home is – and to decide how you would benefit from solid wall insulation.

Our extensive, 10 year experience as one of the UK’s leading energy efficiency specialists means we are ideally placed to source the best possible funding option for your solid wall insulation – in some cases that could mean free solid wall insulation.

Solid wall insulation involves fitting rigid insulation boards to the wall, or building a stud wall filled in with mineral wool fibre. 

Homes with solid wall insulation can reach and maintain warm temperatures quickly. In particular it means properties in which the heating is constantly switching on and off, such as family homes, can benefit from reduced heating times and heat loss.

 

Types of insulation

 

Internal Solid Wall Insulation:

There are two ways to insulate a solid wall internally – with rigid insulation boards, or a stud wall. 

Stud wall insulation is thicker than rigid insulation boards, so it will reduce the size of your room more. But a stud wall is strong enough to hold heavy fittings such as kitchen units, radiators or wash basins. Insulation boards need fixings that go through them and into the wall behind. 

If the plaster is uneven or plaster has been removed and the brickwork is uneven, the wall must be levelled with a layer of plaster or render before boards can be fitted, so a stud wall might be a better option.

Before your walls can be insulated, any problems with penetrating or rising damp must be resolved. Insulation should not be used to cover, hide or isolate damp as this could lead to serious problems in the future. 

 

Rigid insulation boards

Plasterboard backed with rigid insulation is fitted to the inside of your walls. The insulation is usually made from one of several forms of foamed plastic. It should normally be at least 60mm thick, and can be up to 100mmm. The actual thickness required will depend on the material used.

Insulation boards are fixed straight onto the wall using continuous ribbons of plaster or adhesive. Extra fixings hold the boards firm, and joints between boards are sealed to prevent air leaking out.

 

Stud wall

A metal or wooden studwork frame is attached to the wall and filled in with mineral wool fibre. It can then be plastered over, ready for redecoration.

Mineral wool insulation is less effective than rigid insulation boards, so the filling needs to be at least 120mm thick.

Instead of applying plaster, the frame can be covered with rigid insulation boards for even more effective insulation, reducing your running costs even further.

 

External Solid Wall Insulation:

Insulating a solid wall from outside involves affixing a layer of insulation material to the walls, which is then covered with the appropriate protective layers of render or cladding.

Homeowners can choosed from a wide range of finishes, which can be textured, smooth, pebble-dashed, tiled or panelled. However, since the finish can change the appearance of the building, planning permission may be required.

Recessed areas around windows must be insulated and the depth of insulation depending on the width of the window frame and window sills may have to be extended beyond the new layer. Likewise, external pipework and fittings have to be removed and replaced and roof overhangs may also have to be extended.

 

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